From Sept. 15 to 17, bridal buyers and vendors flocked to Chicago for the biannual National Bridal Market Chicago, one of the leading trade shows for bridal and special occasion for the last 50 years.

Housed in The Mart, formerly known as the iconic Merchandise Mart — an architectural staple on the city’s River North riverfront — the trade show ’s open-booth format spanned across its 150,000-square-foot seventh floor.

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The spring show welcomed 154 bridal and occasion designers across the categories of bridal gowns; menswear; mother of the bride and bridesmaids; childrenswear (including flower girls dresses); bridal accessories (veils, headwear and jewelry); special occasion party looks (prom, debutante and quinceañera); intimate apparel; footwear, gifts, and more.

Monique Kielar, vice president of marketing for National Bridal Market Chicago, noted that 22 new designers were added to this season’s show. New brands included the likes of the Anna Sposa Group, Tania Olsen Designs, Diane Legrand, Orchid Bridal Australia, Freda Bennet, Elizabeth Passion, Tres Chic, Maxra Govana Bridal, Chandelier and Modeca.

On the trade show floor, many booths featured models donning their latest looks. Storied New York brand, Morilee, took this one step further by hosting a handful of bridal runway shows (as well as one for its quinceañera line) for its large spring 2025 collection.

“I do love to say we have a dress for every bride, so you’ll just stay with us all day long,” Morilee president and chief executive officer Terri Eagle told the crowd ahead of the show. “This show means a lot to us, as it’s a kickoff of new beginnings. Change is hard, but we’re moving forward.”

In June, the brand exclusively unveiled with WWD that Jiyup Kim, an alumnus of Vera Wang, was appointed the brand’s new chief design officer. (Her first collection will debut at the National Bridal Market Chicago’s show in March.)

During the Morilee show, the spring 2025 collection displayed styles for all types of brides, with designs touching on the trends of the boho bride, romantic bride, classic bride and more.

Over at Watters booth, the brand’s vice president Maria Prince told WWD the brand has been seeing a return to lace after several seasons of “super clean and chic,” as well as an uptick of interesting neckline variations. Brides’ desire to purchase wear multiple wedding looks, including the brand’s little white dresses, is also still going strong.

“As everybody knows, it’s about her wedding wardrobe, not just after parties but also bachelorette parties, showers, receptions and after. The multiple dresses are very strong, which is great so girls are able to explore different personalities,” she said.

Prince noted the brand has been showing in Chicago for 37 years, and noted it’s not just a regional market show, as the brand sees buyers across the country, from California to the midwest to Long Island, N.Y., each season.

“We have seen retailers actually restrategize and rework their store merchandising around it. Every store is finding their own way, depending on their demographic. We have some who have full departments of little white dresses; stores that have them in every fitting room, so after she tries on a dress, she’s thinking and remembering that she wants to layer the look. And we have stores where she comes to the first look of her dress. People are doing it all their own way, but it’s been pretty insane and fun,” she said.

The National Bridal Market Chicago continued to grow its global representation with 20 international designers from Australia to Spain, such as Barcelona-based bridalwear group Pronovias, which returned to Chicago for its spring show, although the brand confirmed they do not show in the Windy City each season.

“We have only one collection a year and we show in Barcelona in April, but we are trying to offer the customers of the stores in America the product where they buy and when they buy. That’s why we’re here in Chicago, to cover the last of the season,” Sever Garcia, commercial director of Pronovias, told WWD. “We want to ensure that the stores that they’re used to buying from in September, or are in the region, are able to get Pronovias and have Pronovias in their stores, although it is a little off-season for us.”

Surrounding the daily trade show, the National Bridal Market Chicago hosted a handful of highly anticipated events, including Monday night’s Riverfront Soiree — which hosted more than 400 guests — and Sunday night’s Fashion show — which featured 155 pieces from brands across the show for around 600 guests at the venue’s new runway space on its fourth floor.

“Our goal is always to create an inspiring environment for Bridal Retailers and Designers to connect, collaborate and conduct business effectively,” Kielar said.

Throughout the week, buyers, models and exhibitors were able to attend the show’s special market events such as complimentary meals and sweet treats, daily happy hours and a piercing event by vendor Jonesy Wood. Guests were also able to take in speciality “Instagrammable moments” curated on the floor, such as an archival tribute to the late Yumi Katsura featuring 10 of her vintage gowns.

The National Bridal Market Chicago will return to The Mart in Chicago in 2025 from March 9 to 11 and Aug. 17 to 19.

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